Summary of Abstract Submission

Abstract Submission No. IO50-03-0007PresentationPoster


Jishad M *1, Jaya Kumar Seelam1

1 CSIR-National Institute of Oceanography, Goa, , India


As ocean surface waves come closer to shore they dissipate their energy through breaking. The surf zone wave climate is the net outcome of the wave refraction, reflection, diffraction and wave breaking, combined with near shore waves, currents and sediment interaction (e.g., Dean and Dalrymple, 2010; Nielsen, 2009). Surf zone waves are one of the major factors influencing the beach morphology, beach characteristics and planning and designing of a coastal protective structures (e.g., Hamm et al., 1993). This study aims to explain the surf zone waves, wave characteristics with nearshore slope and bathymetry, energy dissipation and changes in the height and period of surf zone waves during a half tidal cycle in inner surf zone. The surf zone wave characteristic studies were carried out using AquistarŽ pressure transducer(PT)over a period of 6 hours off Miramar beach, Goa, located on the central west of India. Simultaneous measurements were carried out at three locations in the cross-shore direction, one PT at 1.5m water depth, the second PT at 1m water depth and the third PT at 0.5m depth. The pressure measurements were converted to waves considering suitable methods available in the literature. Wave characteristics were analysed using zero-crossing method and the variation of the spectra and the derived parameters in terms of energy, wave steepness, Irribarren number and Ursell parameter etc., at each location with respect to the tide are studied. A cross-spectral analysis of the wave height time series, tidal displacement and dissipation of wave energy in the surf zone is also studied.